Needlework
Here are some really useful definitions of different types of needlework.
These extracts are from the Encylopedia Britannica (2006 Edition).
Cross Stitch
One of the oldest
of all embroidery stitches, the cross stitch was
widely used by the ancient Egyptians. The Greek
islands and the Scandinavian countries use cross
stitch as their principal embroidery stitch. These stitches are usually worked on a background
fabric of cotton or linen with cotton embroidery thread. A fabric known
as "Aida" is also commonly used. This is a fabric with
a blocked weft that allows for easy identification of the squares over which each cross
is formed.
Cross stitches are formed by two stitches crossing each other.
The angle of crossing can vary from the simple right angles of an X to the more
slanted angles of what appears to be a fishbone—often called a herringbone
stitch.
The cross stitch can be worked in a manner that produces an
identical stitch on both sides of the fabric. Therefore it is often used for
very fine work and for reversible work.
To make
stitches of exactly the same length throughout the piece, the embroiderer often counts the
threads in the background fabric to be crossed. This method repeated throughout the
piece is often called counted cross stitch or thread-count embroidery and
is far more exacting because the stitcher follows a chart. Cross-stitch designs
are also available stamped or printed onto a background fabric ready
to be stitched.
Needlepoint
Needlepoint is one of the oldest forms of needlework and has
long been associated with church vestments, kneelers, and wall hangings. During
the 19th century this method was known as
Berlin
work and
is now sometimes known as canvas work. The needlepoint technique is worked with needle and yarn on
a strong canvas background which is usually pre-printed with the finished design.
The stitches used in needlepoint tapestry have been specially
devised over the years not only to decorate and cover the background canvas but
also to strengthen it. The earliest stitches, which are still used today, were
the tent stitch (sometimes known as petit point) and the cross stitch
(sometimes called gros point). The threads are usually fine wools, but silk,
cotton, and linen threads can also be used.
The stitches are worked over the canvas threads either
vertically, horizontally, or diagonally. They vary in size and shape according
to the number of canvas threads over which they are worked. The stitch should
completely cover the canvas threads.
Crewelwork
Sometimes called flat stitches, crewelwork was the earliest of
all sewing and embroidery stitches. Early records indicate that the Chinese are
responsible for this art and that they usually worked with silk threads.
Present-day crewel embroidery is usually done with wool or with cotton threads.
Straight, flat stitches are worked in a number of different
sizes and directions and at different intervals. They can be used to fill an
area and can be arranged in different ways to catch the light and make subtle
shaded and patterned effects. Among the most familiar of these stitches are the
satin stitch, backstitch, stemstitch, and chain stitch.
Openwork.
Openwork
is the collective name for all forms of embroidery that have
the appearance of lace but are worked on fabric. These techniques are sometimes
known as white work because they are usually worked in white or neutral
stitches on a matching background fabric.
Pulled thread work is the finest and most lacelike. In this
technique the threads of the ground fabric are pulled back with special
embroidery stitches to make decorative spaces or holes.
Hardanger work is a Norwegian term for a technique most
popular in Scandinavia but widely used throughout
Europe
as far back as the 12th century. To work in the Hardanger technique, a few
threads are withdrawn from the background fabric, and embroidery stitches are
used to group the loose strands into patterns. It is sometimes known as needle
weaving and is frequently used for decorative hems and borders on clothing.
Although usually worked in white thread on a white background, it can also be
worked with colored thread or fabric for a contrasting effect.
Cutwork
Cutwork is a technique
sometimes referred to in history books as broderie
anglaise. The designs are worked first with
well-known embroidery stitches, and the fabric is
then cut away from around the stitches. The holes
can be cut inside or outside of the motifs,
depending on the effect desired.
Cutwork is the most open of all openwork types and was
originally used extensively in
Spain
and
Italy
.
Cutwork is used for decorative table and bed
linens and for borders, collars, and cuffs on
clothing.
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